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West Side of Rocky Mountain National Park: Grand Lake Hikes, Lakes and Hot Springs

The west side of Rocky Mountain National Park is the Kawuneeche Valley, entered from Grand Lake rather than Estes Park. Fewer crowds, moose instead of elk, and a different set of backcountry lakes.

5 min read
The short answer

The west side of Rocky Mountain National Park is the Kawuneeche Valley, reached through the town of Grand Lake rather than Estes Park. It has lighter crowds, more moose, and a set of backcountry lakes, including Timber Lake, Lake Nanita, Mirror Lake and Arrowhead Lake, that are longer, quieter hikes than anything on the east side.

West Side of Rocky Mountain National Park: Grand Lake Hikes, Lakes and Hot Springs

West side of Rocky Mountain National Park, at a glance

The west side of Rocky Mountain National Park is the Kawuneeche Valley, entered through the town of Grand Lake rather than Estes Park. It is quieter, wetter, and better for moose than the Bear Lake side. Trail Ridge Road connects the two sides, about 50 miles and about 1 hour 45 minutes of driving without stops between Estes Park and Grand Lake when the road is fully open; most people take longer because the overlooks are worth stopping for. Our Rocky Mountain National Park itinerary is built around the Estes Park side; this guide covers what is different on the west.

The Kawuneeche Valley: What "West Side" Means

Kawuneeche means "valley of the coyote" in Arapaho, and it is the flat, marshy corridor the Colorado River runs through before it is anything more than a stream you can step across. Trail Ridge Road climbs out of this valley on its way over the Continental Divide toward Estes Park. Compared to the Bear Lake corridor on the east side, the west side sees far fewer visitors, has fewer paved overlooks, and is the better bet if elk-jam traffic on the east side has worn you down.

Timber Lake

Timber Lake sits below Jackstraw Mountain in the drainage above the Kawuneeche Valley, reached from a trailhead off Trail Ridge Road. It is a long, steady climb through subalpine forest into a basin below timberline, one of the more demanding day hikes on this side of the park, and a common turnaround point rather than a quick stroll. Start early; there is no shade for most of the return.

Lake Nanita

Lake Nanita is deep in the North Inlet drainage out of Grand Lake, one of the longest backcountry lakes in the park to reach on foot. This is a full-day hike at minimum for most people, and many backpackers split it into an overnight with a permit rather than trying it in a single push. It sits well back from any road, which is most of its appeal.

Mirror Lake and Arrowhead Lake

Mirror Lake and Arrowhead Lake are both part of the same North Inlet and Tonahutu Creek trail network above Grand Lake, reached by long approaches through forest before opening into subalpine basins. Both are realistic as very long day hikes for a fit, early-starting hiker, and more comfortable as an overnight. Get current mileage and trail status from a ranger at the Kawuneeche Visitor Center before committing; trail conditions on this side change with snowpack and blowdown more than the numbers on an old map suggest.

Kayaking on the West Side

Inside the park itself, non-motorized watercraft, kayaks, canoes and float tubes, are allowed on every lake except Bear Lake. In practice almost all of the park's lakes are backcountry lakes you reach by trail, not by boat ramp, so this rule matters more on paper than in your actual trip planning. The lake most people mean when they ask about kayaking near Grand Lake, Grand Lake itself and neighboring Shadow Mountain Reservoir, sits just south of the park boundary in Arapaho National Recreation Area, where motorized boats are common and rentals are easy to find in the town of Grand Lake.

Hot Sulphur Springs

Hot Sulphur Springs is a small town about 25 miles from Grand Lake, about 45 minutes down US-34 and US-40, outside the national park and under separate ownership, with a developed hot springs pool complex that has operated there for decades. It is not part of Rocky Mountain National Park and not run by the National Park Service. Check current hours and pricing directly before you go, since a small commercial operation like this can change its schedule with the season.

Getting to the West Side

Grand Lake is reached from Denver via US-40 over Berthoud Pass, or from Estes Park over Trail Ridge Road, which closes for the winter, typically from around mid-October to Memorial Day depending on snowpack. If you are coming from the east side mid-trip, check the current road status before you plan the crossing as your only route; outside the summer season it may not be open at all.

Keep planning with Rocky Mountain National Park Itinerary and Easy Hikes in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Ready-made tripRocky Mountain National Park Itinerary: 3 Days in Estes ParkEvery place in this guide, already timed, mapped, and planned day by day. See the full itinerary.See the full itinerary →

West Side of Rocky Mountain National Park: Grand Lake Hikes, Lakes and Hot Springs FAQs

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