Trip Overview
- Duration: 10 days
- Activity: Whitewater rafting + backpacking
- Difficulty: Strenuous (Class III–IV+ whitewater on Main Salmon; Class IV–V on Middle Fork)
- Permit: Middle Fork of the Salmon requires a launch permit (lottery via recreation.gov, opens December 1). Main Salmon: self-issue at launch. No hiking permit.
- Best months: June–August (river flows); July–September (backpacking)
- Access point: Salmon, ID or Stanley, ID; fly-in available from McCall, ID
The Frank Church: America's Largest Roadless Area
The Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness covers 2.4 million acres of central Idaho — larger than Yellowstone, the largest designated wilderness in the lower 48. There are no roads. Access is by trail, river, or bush plane. The Main Salmon and Middle Fork of the Salmon Rivers drain through the deepest river gorge in North America (deeper than the Grand Canyon in places).
This 10-day expedition combines three distinct experiences: 3 days on the Main Salmon (Class III–IV), 4 days backpacking the Bighorn Crags, and 3 days at a fly-in hot springs camp. Each segment requires separate logistics.
Segment 1: Main Salmon River Float (Days 1–3)
Put in at Corn Creek Campground, 45 miles north of Salmon, ID via Forest Road 030. The Main Salmon runs 79 miles from Corn Creek to Riggins — a 3-day trip at high water, 4–5 days at low. It's a Class III–IV river with continuous rapids, 8 named major rapids (Salmon Falls, Big Mallard, Rainier), and no dams. The canyon walls rise 5,000 feet above the river in sections.
Commercial guided trips are available from Salmon or Stanley and are the right call for first-timers. Private permit holders self-issue at Corn Creek; no lottery required for the Main Stem. Camp on sand bars and established Forest Service sites along the river. Hot springs are scattered along the canyon — Barth Hot Springs (mile 46) soaks in 104°F pools above the river.
Gear for the float: dry bags essential, whitewater PFD, wetsuit or dry suit (June–early July), helmet for Class IV sections.
Segment 2: Bighorn Crags Backpacking (Days 4–7)
Exit the river at Corn Creek or take a jet boat upstream to the Salmon River trailhead, then drive or be shuttled to the Bighorn Crags Trailhead (via Cobalt, ID — 30 miles of rough gravel road, high-clearance required). The Bighorn Crags are a subrange of granite spires within the Frank Church, with 20+ lakes above 9,000 feet and genuinely off-trail travel options.
The Crags Campground to Ship Island Lake Loop (32 miles, 4 days) passes Reflection Lake, Wilson Lake, and Ship Island Lake — all in granite cirques with vertical walls. No maintained trail for several sections. Navigation skill required. No permit needed.
r/backpacking▲ 1.4k upvotes"The Bighorn Crags are the most under-visited spectacular range in the country. I saw 3 other people in 4 days. The lakes are unreal."
Segment 3: Fly-In Hot Springs Camp (Days 8–10)
Book a charter flight from McCall, ID (Salmon Air or McCall Aviation) to one of the private lodges or USFS airstrips accessible inside the Frank Church. Sulphur Creek Ranch, Root Ranch, and several USFS airstrips accommodate small bush planes (Cessna 182, Super Cub). Fly-in camp rates range from $300–600/night at lodges to free at USFS airstrips with your own gear.
Stolle Meadows Hot Springs and Sunflower Hot Springs are accessible on foot from USFS airstrips — 104–108°F natural pools with no infrastructure and no other people. This combination of float, backpack, and fly-in is the full Frank Church experience.
Middle Fork Option (Replace Segment 1)
The Middle Fork of the Salmon (96 miles, Class IV–V, 6 days) is a tier above the Main Stem in difficulty and logistics. It requires a launch permit lottery (apply by January 31 for summer launch; recreation.gov). Commercial outfitters (ECHO River Trips, OARS, Salmon River Outfitters) run guided trips from $3,000–4,500 per person. Private parties require lottery success, Class V skills, and full self-support. The Middle Fork is widely considered the premier wilderness river in North America. If permits are available, replace Segment 1 with the Middle Fork and exit at Cache Bar to Salmon.
Logistics Summary
- Car shuttle: Required for point-to-point segments; multiple shuttles available from Salmon River Outfitters, Salmon ID
- Charter flights: McCall Aviation (208-634-7137), Salmon Air (208-756-6211)
- Gear rental: Full raft/kayak gear rental in Salmon, ID and Stanley, ID
