Why Theodore Roosevelt National Park Is North Dakota's Best-Kept Secret
Most people drive through on the interstate and never stop. That's a mistake. Theodore Roosevelt National Park protects 70,000 acres of North Dakota Badlands — layered canyons of burgundy, gold, and gray clay, open grasslands where bison herds graze, and feral horse bands that have roamed here since the 1800s. The South Unit, near Medora, ND, is the most accessible and the most rewarding for backpackers. Unlike the more famous Badlands of South Dakota across the border, TRNP sees a fraction of the crowds.
The Petrified Forest Loop is the crown jewel: 10.4 miles through the most remote terrain in the park, past petrified wood stumps, across dry washes, and through canyon systems where you may not see another person for an entire day. Combined with a section of the Maah Daah Hey Trail on day three, this is a three-day loop that showcases everything North Dakota's badlands can offer.
Trip Overview
- Duration: 3 days / 2 nights
- Total distance: ~18 miles
- Base town: Medora, ND
- Permit: Backcountry permit required — free, self-register at the South Unit Visitor Center
- Entry fee: $30/vehicle (7-day pass)
- Best months: May–June and September (avoid July–August heat)
- Water: Carry all water — no reliable sources in backcountry
Day 1 — Into the Petrified Forest
Pick up your free backcountry permit at the South Unit Visitor Center in Medora before heading out. Drive to the Petrified Forest trailhead via the unpaved road on the park's west end (high-clearance recommended after rain — the clay becomes impassable when wet). The 10.4-mile Petrified Forest Loop begins in open grassland before dropping into a maze of clay buttes and ravines.
Hike 5–6 miles to your first camp in the Petrified Forest area — established camping is permitted in the backcountry anywhere 0.25 miles from roads and designated areas. The petrified wood stumps scattered across the flats are remnants of ancient subtropical forests from 55 million years ago; do not collect any pieces (federal law, $10,000 fine). Watch the canyon walls in late afternoon light — the iron-rich clay turns deep burgundy as the sun drops. Bison are common in the Petrified Forest area; give them at least 100 yards of space. Wild horses may appear at any point on the horizon — the South Unit herd numbers around 100 animals.
Day 2 — Canyon Country and the Painted Badlands
Complete the Petrified Forest Loop, which winds through a series of increasingly dramatic clay canyons before returning to flatter terrain. The most photogenic section is the middle portion where bentonite clay formations create otherworldly hoodoo shapes in the canyon walls. Navigation requires attention — trails in the backcountry are marked with posts rather than a maintained tread, and in fog or rain the landscape becomes disorienting quickly. Download the trail to Gaia GPS before departing.
In the afternoon, connect to the Maah Daah Hey Trail via the South Unit connector. This iconic trail's southern terminus is in the South Unit, and even a short segment shows you the trail's character: vast open ridge walks with panoramic badlands views extending 30 miles in clear conditions. Camp near the Maah Daah Hey trail junction — the ridge campsites here offer sunset views that rival anything in the American West.
Day 3 — Ridge Walking and the Return to Medora
Hike the Maah Daah Hey Trail north toward the Painted Canyon Overlook connector, then return via the Ridgeline Trail back toward the South Unit's main road. The Ridgeline Trail follows the tops of the clay buttes and delivers sustained views across the Little Missouri River valley — look for prairie dog towns in the flats below, and watch for golden eagles hunting overhead. The road walk back to Medora takes about 45 minutes, or arrange a shuttle in advance.
Spend the evening in Medora — a well-preserved Western frontier town that serves as the park's gateway. The Medora Musical is an outdoor amphitheater show running June through September that's genuinely worth attending. The Rough Riders Hotel has a good restaurant and a patio with views of the buttes.
Gear Notes
- Water: Carry 4 liters minimum at all times — no reliable sources exist in the backcountry. A filter is backup only.
- Sun protection: The Badlands offer zero shade. Sun hoody, wide brim hat, SPF 50+ sunscreen are non-negotiable in summer.
- Navigation: Trail markers are wooden posts 50–200 yards apart. Download offline maps on Gaia GPS or CalTopo before leaving cell service.
- Footwear: Trail runners work well on dry bentonite clay. If rain is in the forecast, the clay becomes like wet concrete — bring gaiters or plan to bail.
- Wildlife: Bear spray is not needed, but giving bison wide space is critical. Never get between a cow and her calf.
