Lake Michigan's Dramatic Shoreline
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore protects 35 miles of the Lake Michigan shoreline in northwest Michigan — including the famous Sleeping Bear Dune, a 450-foot sand bluff rising directly from the water's edge. But the lakeshore is more than the dune climb: two offshore wilderness islands, a network of backcountry trails, inland lakes with exceptional kayaking, and the surrounding Leelanau Peninsula with cherry orchards and waterfront towns combine to make this one of the most complete outdoor destinations in the Midwest.
Trip Overview
- Duration: 6 days
- Base town: Empire, MI (Leelanau County — good restaurants, close to all trailheads)
- Days 1-2: Mainland trails and Dune Climb
- Days 3-4: North Manitou Island wilderness camping
- Days 5-6: Kayaking and Leelanau Peninsula
Day 1 — Pyramid Point and Dune Climb
Pyramid Point Trail (4.2 miles, 4.6★ AllTrails, 2,800+ reviews): the best hike in the national lakeshore and one of the best views in Michigan. The trail climbs 400 feet through beech-maple forest to the Pyramid Point bluff — 200 feet of exposed sand dune above Lake Michigan with a horizon view stretching to Wisconsin on clear days. Return via the beach path along Lake Michigan's shoreline.
Afternoon: the Dune Climb (1 mile round trip, 200-foot sand ascent to lake view). It's harder than it looks — loose sand, no shade. Bring water. The descent to the lake at the bottom is worth the effort: Lake Michigan in summer can reach 72°F in the shallows.
Day 2 — Alligator Hill Loop and North Bar Lake
Alligator Hill Loop (3.8 miles, easy-moderate) through old-growth beech forest with two Lake Michigan overlooks. Afternoon: North Bar Lake, a small inland lake connected to Lake Michigan by a sandbar, with warm swimming and a family-friendly kayak launch. The Platte River mouth (1 mile south) is an excellent evening spot for coho salmon watching in September.
Days 3-4 — North Manitou Island Wilderness Camping
The Manitou Passage ferry leaves from Leland, MI (45 minutes north of Empire) — reserve in advance at Manitou Island Transit. North Manitou is the wilder of the two Manitou Islands: no stores, no facilities, wilderness camping only (first-come basis, permit at ferry dock). The entire island is 15,000 acres of dense hardwood and old dune ridges with Lake Michigan views in every direction. Carry all water (filtering streams on island) and 2 days of food. Best campsites: the north beach camps with sunset views toward Michigan's Upper Peninsula.
Day 5 — Kayaking the Pierce Stocking Drive Shoreline
Rent kayaks from Crystal River Kayak in Empire (best on the peninsula) and paddle the Lake Michigan shoreline below the Sleeping Bear Dune. The view from water level looking up at the dune escarpment is a completely different perspective on the landscape. Morning launch recommended — afternoon winds increase on Lake Michigan. Alternatively paddle Crystal Lake, the large inland lake southwest of Empire, for calmer water.
Day 6 — Leelanau Peninsula Finale
Drive the Leelanau Peninsula: Good Harbor Bay Trail (1.5 miles of Lake Michigan beach with creek mouth and dune grass), then north to Leland's Fishtown (historic commercial fishing village, actual working fisheries, fresh whitefish for lunch), and Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail (bike or hike) for the day's end.
