A River Through the American Badlands
The Little Missouri River is not a famous river. It doesn't have a film named after it or a tour operator advertising trips on the first page of Google. It flows 560 miles through North Dakota's Badlands, passing through Theodore Roosevelt National Park twice — through the South Unit and the North Unit — with 96 miles of floatable water between them that can be paddled in 7–10 days depending on water levels and ambition. Gravel bar camping is permitted throughout, no permit is required outside park boundaries, and the wildlife density is extraordinary: bison herds at the water's edge, wild horse bands on the canyon rims, eagles in the thermals above.
This is not a whitewater trip. The Little Missouri is a flatwater and mild Class I river best run at medium flows — roughly April through June when snowmelt keeps levels adequate for loaded canoes. By August it often runs too shallow to paddle efficiently. Check USGS stream gauge data (station 06336000 at Medora) before committing: optimal flow is 200–800 cfs.
Trip Overview
- Duration: 10 days
- Distance: ~96 river miles (South Unit put-in to North Unit take-out)
- Craft: Canoe (16–17 ft touring canoe recommended); kayak workable at moderate flows
- Permit: Free backcountry permit within Theodore Roosevelt NP; no permit on National Grassland sections
- Best season: April–June (optimal flow)
- Shuttle: Required — arrange vehicle shuttle between Medora and Watford City beforehand
- Difficulty: Class I flatwater with occasional shallow sections requiring lining or portage
Days 1–2 — Medora to South Unit Interior (~18 miles)
Put in at the Sully Creek boat ramp near Medora, ND. The river immediately enters the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park — canyon walls rise 400 feet above the water within the first mile. The South Unit's bison herd frequently comes to the river to drink, and this section delivers wildlife encounters within hours of launch. Bison at the water's edge require patience — they move when ready, not when you paddle toward them. Camp on gravel bars, which are wide, flat, and plentiful through the canyon sections. No campfire rings exist out here; bring a camp stove.
Days 3–4 — South Unit Exit to National Grassland (~20 miles)
The river exits the South Unit and enters the Little Missouri National Grassland — a vast checkerboard of federal land where camping is unrestricted. The canyon walls open and close as the river meanders through alternating grassland and badlands terrain. Prairie dog towns appear on the benchlands above the river flats; their alarm calls follow you downstream. Meadowlarks provide a constant soundtrack. Several private land sections exist along this stretch — identify them on the BLM Surface Management Status map (downloadable PDF) and do not camp on private parcels.
Days 5–6 — Grassland Meanders (~20 miles)
The most remote section of the trip. The river slows, braids in places, and demands some reading to find the deepest channel. Golden eagles nest on cliff faces above the river here, and watching a territorial pair soar the thermals above a painted badlands wall is a genuinely memorable experience. A hiking layover day here makes sense — climb the nearest ridgeline for views over the river valley and the Maah Daah Hey Trail alignment above. At the right flow, these two middle days feel like a different planet from the rest of the continental United States.
Days 7–8 — Approaching the North Unit (~20 miles)
The river gradient increases slightly as you approach the North Unit, with a few riffles adding welcome movement. The canyon walls deepen again. Wild horse bands from the North Unit's herd are regularly spotted on the benchlands here — the herd roams widely on both sides of the park boundary. Enter the North Unit near the Achenbach Trail river crossing — this is one of the prettiest segments in the entire float, with the Achenbach Hills rising dramatically above both banks.
Days 9–10 — North Unit and Take-Out (~18 miles)
The North Unit float is slow and scenic — the canyon here is narrower and the walls more colorful than the South Unit. The Squaw Creek campground in the North Unit provides a final night with facilities before the take-out at the North Unit's river access point. Take-out and vehicle shuttle to Watford City, then dinner at the Outlaws Bar and Grill, a North Dakota institution that has served more than a few river-worn paddlers.
Combine this float with Medora Musical tickets on your first night (June–September) — an outdoor amphitheater show at the gateway to the trip that puts you in the right mindset for 10 days in the badlands.
Logistics and Safety
Always file a float plan with a contact before departure. Cell service is nonexistent through most of the corridor. A satellite communicator (Garmin inReach or SPOT) is strongly recommended. Check current water levels on the USGS stream gauge at Medora the week before departure and again the day before — the river can drop quickly in dry years.
