The Trail Almost Nobody Talks About
On Reddit's r/ultralight and r/backpacking, you'll occasionally see a post titled something like 'Why isn't anyone talking about the Maah Daah Hey?' The answers tend to share a theme: people either don't know it exists, or they assume North Dakota has nothing worth hiking. Both assumptions are wrong.
The Maah Daah Hey Trail (MDH) runs 144 miles through the North Dakota Badlands, connecting Theodore Roosevelt National Park's South and North Units via the Little Missouri National Grassland. The name comes from the Mandan language and means roughly 'an area that has been or will be around for a long time.' The trail itself opened in 1999 and remains one of the genuinely underused long-distance trails in the United States. On a June backpacking trip through the central 60-mile section, you may encounter fewer than a dozen other hikers the entire time.
Trip Overview
- Duration: 6 days / 5 nights
- Distance: ~60 miles (Burning Coal Vein Campground to CCC Campground)
- Permit: None required — primitive camping anywhere off-trail on National Grassland; backcountry permit (free, self-register) within Theodore Roosevelt NP
- Water: Scarce and critical — sources spaced 8–15 miles apart; carry 4–6 liters between sources
- Best months: Late May–June and September
- Nearest town: Medora, ND (South Unit gateway) or Watford City, ND (North Unit gateway)
- Difficulty: Strenuous — heat, water scarcity, and route-finding require experience
Day 1 — Burning Coal Vein to Wannagan Creek (~10 miles)
Trailhead at Burning Coal Vein Campground, accessible from US-85. The trail immediately climbs onto ridgelines with sweeping views of the Little Missouri River valley below. This section crosses open grass prairie dotted with pronghorn and wild turkey before descending into clay canyon systems. Wannagan Creek is your first reliable water source and campsite. Fill every container here — the next guaranteed water is 9 miles ahead. The clay formations around Wannagan turn vivid shades of orange and burgundy at golden hour.
Day 2 — Wannagan Creek to Long X Divide (~10 miles)
This is the most remote section of the route. The trail traverses the Long X Divide, a broad grassland plateau with 40-mile views in clear conditions. Wildlife here is exceptional: golden eagles are a near-daily sighting, prairie dog towns dot the valley floors, and pronghorn herds are common on the flats. Water at Magpie Camp (seasonal spring — verify current conditions before departure on the MDH trail report website). Camp on the divide for a sunset that turns the entire landscape gold.
Day 3 — Long X Divide to Theodore Roosevelt NP North Unit (~10 miles)
The trail descends from the divide and enters the Theodore Roosevelt National Park North Unit — a wilder, quieter alternative to the more-visited South Unit. The North Unit's canyon country is deeply cut and dramatic: Caprock Coulee Trail offers a 4-mile loop with exceptional badlands geology if you have time. Pick up your free backcountry permit at the North Unit Visitor Center before camping in the park interior. The Achenbach Trail segment within the park is among the trail's most scenic miles.
Day 4 — North Unit Interior (~10 miles)
A full day inside Theodore Roosevelt NP North Unit. The trail crosses the Little Missouri River — wade crossing, thigh-deep in June, check levels before departure — and climbs into the Achenbach Hills. This is prime wild horse territory: the North Unit herd roams this section regularly. Bison crossings on the trail are common; yield and wait. Camp in a clay canyon with walls rising 200 feet on either side.
Day 5 — North Unit Exit to Sully Creek (~10 miles)
Exit the North Unit and re-enter the Little Missouri National Grassland heading south. This section passes through some of the most open terrain on the route — big sky country where thunderstorms can be tracked from 30 miles away. Sully Creek State Park near Medora has water and restroom facilities. Camp at Sully Creek and walk the 2 miles into Medora for a real meal before your final day.
Day 6 — Sully Creek to South Unit Trailhead (~10 miles)
The final push through the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt NP and back to the trailhead. The South Unit has the densest bison population — encounters are likely. Finish at the Petrified Forest Trailhead or arrange a shuttle back to Medora. Celebrate at the Medora Badlands Motel's bar, which has seen its share of MDH finishers.
Water Strategy — The Critical Factor
Water on the MDH is the trip-planning factor that separates successful attempts from bailouts. Sources include springs (seasonal, may be dry June onward), stock tanks (cattle operation water, treat aggressively), and seasonal creeks. Before departure, check current water reports on the MDH Association website (mdhta.com) and the North Dakota State Forest Service. Carry a minimum 6-liter capacity. A Sawyer Squeeze or Katadyn BeFree will handle any source you find.
