Trip Overview
The Everglades is the only place in the world where alligators and American crocodiles coexist in the wild. It is also the largest subtropical wilderness in North America and one of the most productive bird habitats on the continent. Kayaking the southern section of the Wilderness Waterway out of Flamingo gives you access to the heart of this landscape in a way that no road or trail can match.
- Duration: 3 days / 2 nights on water
- Launch point: Flamingo Marina, Everglades NP (southernmost point in Florida accessible by car)
- Distance: ~25–35 miles paddled total
- Best months: December–March (dry season, cooler temps, low insects, peak wildlife)
- Permits: Backcountry camping permit required ($15 + $2/person/night, recreation.gov)
- Kayak rental: Flamingo Outfitters at Flamingo Marina ($65/day single, $85/day tandem)
Before You Go: The Permit System
Every campsite in the Everglades backcountry requires a permit. Chickee sites (the elevated wooden platforms over water) are the most sought-after and can be reserved up to 24 hours in advance on recreation.gov — not months ahead, which means you need to plan and book exactly 24 hours before each night. Ground sites at beaches and in the interior are first-come, first-served with a permit issued at the Flamingo Visitor Center. For a December–February trip, arrive at Flamingo the day before your launch to get your permit in person.
Day 1 — Flamingo to Nine Mile Pond (12 mi)
Launch from Flamingo Marina at first light — wind picks up by 10am in winter and can make open-water crossings slow going. Paddle west along the Buttonwood Canal, where double-crested cormorants dry their wings on every snag and great blue herons stand motionless in the shallows. The canal opens into Coot Bay, a broad expanse of water ringed with red mangroves where bottlenose dolphins regularly feed. Continue into Whitewater Bay via the narrow tidal creek channel — the water turns dark tannin-brown from the mangrove roots, a phenomenon that creates the optical illusion of extreme depth.
Camp at Nine Mile Pond chickee — two wooden platforms elevated 3 feet above tidal water, accessible by kayak only. At sunset, the sky over the western Everglades fills with roseate spoonbills returning to roost: a spectacle of improbable pink birds that photographers travel from around the world to see.
Day 2 — Nine Mile Pond to Shark Point (15 mi)
The longest paddling day, with a route through the tidal gut of the Wilderness Waterway. The highlight is the mangrove tunnels — narrow channels where prop roots interlock overhead and the sky disappears completely. Paddling through a mangrove tunnel in silence, with the only sound being water dripping off your paddle, is one of Florida's most surreal outdoor experiences. Look down: the water is crystalline in these channels and you can see manatees resting on the bottom, spotted eagle rays, and schools of snook.
Camp at Shark Point chickee — a single platform at the edge of the Gulf, exposed to spectacular sunsets over the Ten Thousand Islands. Watch for American crocodiles (distinguished from alligators by their narrower snout and visible lower teeth) hauling out on nearby mud banks at dusk.
Day 3 — Return to Flamingo (10 mi)
An earlier start is critical on the return — the prevailing winter wind is out of the north/northwest and you're paddling generally east and north back to Flamingo. The Mud Lake Loop shortcut saves 3 miles on the return and passes through a series of small interior lakes where anhingas (the strange black diving bird that lacks waterproofing and must dry its wings after every dive) congregate in the mangroves. Arrive at Flamingo Marina by early afternoon.
What to Bring
- Water: 2 gallons per person per day minimum. No potable water exists on the route. Bring a water filter as backup.
- Sun protection: The Everglades has zero shade on open water. Neck gaiter, sun gloves, SPF 50+ sunscreen.
- Bug protection: November–April is low-bug season but not no-bug season. A head net and 30%+ DEET spray are mandatory items.
- Navigation: Download the Everglades backcountry map on Gaia GPS or AllTrails before you launch. The waterway markers can be hard to spot in low light or fog.
- Tide table: Tide affects water depth in the tidal creeks by 2–3 feet. Download a tide chart for Flamingo and time your passages through shallow sections accordingly.
Wildlife Notes
The Everglades hosts over 350 bird species. In December–March you'll likely see: great blue heron, great egret, snowy egret, roseate spoonbill, anhinga, osprey, brown pelican, and — if lucky — the endangered snail kite. Manatees are common in Coot Bay and the Gulf approaches. Alligators are present everywhere; give them a wide berth on land. American crocodiles are more rarely seen and are not aggressive toward humans.
