Why the Boundary Waters
The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) straddles the Minnesota-Canada border — 1.1 million acres of interconnected lakes, rivers, and forest with no motorboats on most waters, no roads, and no permanent structures. Over 1,200 lakes are accessible by paddle and portage. The Entry Point 30 / Lake One corridor is the most popular introduction to the system for good reason: it's manageable, beautiful, and gives you a genuine taste of paddling wilderness without committing to a 10-day expedition.
Trip Overview
- Duration: 3 days / 2 nights
- Entry Point: Entry Point 30 — Lake One, near Ely, MN
- Distance: ~18 miles paddling, 4 portages (all under 100 rods)
- Permit: Quota permit required — reserve on recreation.gov up to 6 months in advance. Day-use permits available walk-up.
- Base town: Ely, MN — full outfitters, canoe rentals, shuttle service
- Best months: June–September; July–August for warmth, May and September for solitude
Day 1 — Ely to Lake Two
Pick up your quota permit and canoe from an Ely outfitter the evening before or morning of departure. The put-in at Entry Point 30 is 20 minutes from Ely. Paddle Lake One (3.5 miles, long and open — watch for afternoon wind), portage 38 rods to Lake Two. Set up camp on one of Lake Two's eastern islands, which offer both wind protection and excellent fishing structure. Walleye, northern pike, and smallmouth bass are common throughout the system. Bring a 6-weight rod or ultralight spin setup.
Lake Two campsite selection tip: sites 879 and 880 on the eastern shore face west for sunset views over the lake and stay wind-sheltered by a ridgeline to the north. Camp registration is self-service — the site number on your permit must match where you sleep each night.
Day 2 — Lake Two to Lake Three and Back
From Lake Two, a 25-rod portage connects to Lake Three — one of the most scenic lakes in the Entry Point 30 corridor, with a narrow channel and high granite outcroppings draped in white pine. Spend the morning exploring Lake Three's bays (moose are frequently seen feeding in the shallow northern arm in early morning). Return to Lake Two by mid-afternoon and fish the evening rise from your canoe — surface activity typically starts around 7pm on calm evenings.
The loon density in the BWCAW is among the highest in North America. Common loon pairs nest on most lakes and call throughout the night. The yodel call — territorial, haunting, unlike anything else — is the sound the Boundary Waters is known for.
Day 3 — Paddle Out
Morning paddle back across Lake One to the take-out. Leave camp by 8am to avoid afternoon headwinds on the open water. Stop at Ely's Insula Restaurant for the walleye sandwich — a tradition if you caught fish.
Gear Notes
- Canoe: Rent from Ely outfitters. A 17ft Royalex or Kevlar tripping canoe handles the open water better than recreational boats.
- Portage packs: Duluth-style portage packs are designed to stack in a canoe and carry on your back. Most outfitters include them with rentals.
- Water: Filter directly from lakes — Sawyer Squeeze works well. Don't drink unfiltered.
- Bear protection: Bear canister or hang required. Black bears are active throughout the BWCAW.
- Bug season: Black flies peak late May through mid-June. Mosquitoes peak July. Head net and DEET are not optional in June.
AllTrails Note
The BWCAW isn't a trail system — it's a paddling system. Entry Point 30 has no formal AllTrails listing, but the BWCAW trip planner at paddlemn.com and the Quetico Superior app have detailed lake maps, portage lengths, and campsite locations.
What Reddit Says
On r/BWCA (the dedicated subreddit), Entry Point 30 is routinely recommended as the best beginner route. Top advice from the community: "Book your permit the day they open in January — Entry Point 30 quota fills within hours for July weekends."
