Wrangell–St. Elias Alaska: Kennecott, Glaciers & Wild Wilderness

Wrangell–St. Elias is not a national park most Americans have visited — or even heard of. It is bigger than all other US national parks combined. At 13.2 million acres, it encompasses 9 of the 16 highest peaks in the United States, four major mountain ranges converging in one place, and one of the largest non-polar glacier systems on earth. Fewer than 70,000 people visit each year. This is genuinely wild Alaska.

Overview

• Location: Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve, Alaska
• Size: 13.2 million acres — larger than Switzerland
• Access: McCarthy Road (60-mile gravel road from Chitina) — high-clearance vehicle recommended
• Best time: June through September (road passable; McCarthy Road closes or becomes extremely rough in winter)
• Backcountry permit: Not required; register with park rangers before heading into wilderness

Kennecott: The Ghost Town Copper Mine

The Kennecott Mines are the reason most visitors make the trek to Wrangell–St. Elias. A National Historic Landmark, Kennecott was a copper mining operation that ran from 1903 to 1938, extracting $200 million worth of copper ore from the Bonanza and Erie mines high above the mill town. When the ore ran out, the company left — and the buildings froze in place.

• 14-story red mill building is the centerpiece of the historic district
• Self-guided tours available; guided historic tours through St. Elias Alpine Guides highly recommended
• McCarthy (1 mile from Kennecott, across the footbridge) is the only real town — restaurants, lodging, small store
• No cars allowed beyond the McCarthy footbridge — park and walk, or take the shuttle

Root Glacier Walk

The Root Glacier trail (4 miles RT from Kennecott) leads directly onto the surface of an active glacier. The ice is blue-white, riddled with moulins (vertical shafts) and crevasses, and constantly moving and groaning. Walking ON the glacier requires crampons.

• Guided tours: St. Elias Alpine Guides offers daily glacier walks with crampons provided — excellent for first-timers
• Self-guided: Crampons available for rent in McCarthy; experience with glacier travel required
• Ice climbing: Guided ice climbing on the Root Glacier walls is a popular add-on — no prior experience needed for beginner sessions

Bonanza Mine Trail

The most challenging day hike accessible from Kennecott. The trail climbs 3,800 feet in 4.25 miles from Kennecott (7,800 ft summit), passing through alpine tundra to reach the abandoned Bonanza copper mine site. From the top: views of the Root and Kennicott Glaciers, the Wrangell Mountains, and on clear days, the Alaska Range. Strenuous, 8.5 miles RT. Allow 6–8 hours.

Getting to McCarthy

• McCarthy Road: 60 miles of gravel from Chitina to the McCarthy footbridge. High-clearance vehicle strongly recommended. Old railroad spikes can flat tires — bring a spare.
• Drive from Anchorage: 7–8 hours via Glenn Highway and Richardson Highway to Chitina
• Last gas and supplies: Chitina (small store, gas station) — stock up here before the road
• Flightseeing: Wrangell–St. Elias Air operates sightseeing flights from McCarthy over glaciers and 16,000-ft peaks — the most dramatic aviation experience in Alaska

Backcountry Travel

Outside the Kennecott area, the park has essentially no maintained trails. Backcountry travel is off-trail through wilderness. Bush plane access to remote river valleys and mountain basins is the standard approach for experienced expeditions. Grizzly bears and wolves are present throughout; brown bears near coastal areas. River crossings are glacially-fed and very cold — hypothermia is a real risk. Register with park rangers before any backcountry trip.

Best Time to Visit

• June: Wildflowers on tundra, long days (Alaska light), some road sections muddy
• July: Peak conditions, warmest, maximum daylight, mosquitoes most active
• August: Best weather window, glaciers most stable, berries ripening (draws bears)
• September: Fall color on tundra, fewer crowds, cooler — excellent month

What to Bring

• Bug headnet and DEET: Mosquitoes in July can be overwhelming
• Rain gear: The Wrangells create their own weather systems
• Crampons: For glacier travel (can rent in McCarthy)
• Bear spray: Mandatory for backcountry; recommended even near Kennecott
• Satellite communicator: No cell service anywhere in the park; essential for backcountry
• Cash: Some McCarthy businesses are cash-only
• Spare tire: McCarthy Road is hard on tires

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